23 Apr 2024
Matador Network|Piia Mustamki: For most western people Iran invokes images of violence. Of religious fanaticism, of anger against westerners, of a ruthless, hard-line government ready to punish the slightest digression, of travelers arrested and thrown in jail. But then there are the reports from people who have actually traveled to Iran, from Anthony Bourdain to amateur travel bloggers, and without fail they all mention how friendly and hospitable the people were and how welcomed and safe they felt, Americans included.

So what gives? No doubt the biggest possible discrepancy between the news and the reality.

Im fortunate to have experienced Iran for myself and dont have to rely on misleading news. Heres why I cant wait to go back:

1. The people.

Iranians are outgoing, fun-loving, and direct, which means that they wont be shy about talking to you. And the famous Iranian hospitality is no joke. This means that youre guaranteed to have plenty of genuine contact with the locals when traveling. Heres a few examples from my two-week trip: In Isfahan, five cheerful women invited me to join them on a picnic because I happened to sit on a park bench by myself; one night I asked a passerby directions to my hotel and was given a motorcycle ride to the hotel entrance; a friend of a friend, before meeting me in person, booked me a hotel in Isfahan and Yazd, a ride from the bus station and credit for my phone; the southwestern nomads, who my new Iranian friends took me to meet on our road trip, treated me as a guest of honor and showered me with gifts.

I was even proven that such a thing as a free lunch does exist: I had finally found the famous lamb kebab place in the beautiful, early 17hcentury maze that is the Isfahan souk, but there being no menus I didnt know how to put my order in. The place was crowded but I found an empty seat at a table with two women and decided to wait until a waiter comes. As I sat down, the women at the table offered me to share their food, while another woman from the next table asked in perfect English if I needed any help. Since I didnt know how things worked, she suggested she put the order in for me on her way out. Soon she came back to inform me that my food will arrive soon and that it was already paid for. Dumbfounded, I tried to protest but the woman stopped me and said: I paid because youre a guest in our country. Welcome.

2. The architecture.

While the people will always be the number one reason for me to return to Iran, the historic sites with their mind-boggling details are so beautiful and humbling that they managed to blow me, a seasoned traveler, away. Kashans merchant houses. Isfahans Naqsh-e Jahan square. Yazds Zoroastrian sites. Shirazs beautiful mosques and Hafezs tomb. Persepolis. Visiting these sites that are unlike anywhere else in the world, give you a strong sense of a unique, pristine culture with rich history, not overshadowed with western consumerist products.

3. The food.

Iranians take great pride in their cuisine and for a good reason. I know Im not the only traveler raving about the traditional dishes the tasty kebabs or the meat and vegetable stews, cooked with fragrant spices and fresh herbs, often with plums, apricots, walnuts or pomegranate sauce. Great news for foodies, too: while in recent years the inflation has raised Irans hotel and ticket prices, eating out remains inexpensive.

4. The mutual excitement.

Once in Iran, youll realize that your excitement about finally being there is not one-sided: the Iranians are equally excited about your visit. Theyre aware of the distorted image the western media has created of their country and are pleased that you didnt believe the negative news and decided to come. Theyre eager to show you that they havent bought their governments propaganda about westerners by showing the best of their culture. In the era of mass tourism and jaded locals, who are often just after the tourists money, such mutual excitement is a rare situation, to say the least.

If youre still thinking about the headlines of tourists arrested in Iran, go check and youll find out that they had always done something like hiking too close to a border to arouse the officials suspicion. My advice: dont be afraid, but be smart and dont take unnecessary risks by acting rebellious. Iranian people and the culture are friendly and overwhelmingly welcoming, but the fact is that the hard-liners run the country. Dont give them an excuse to make you into an example and they wont. Go see the sites, sip coffee and watch the crowds, eat your way around the country and most importantly meet the people, many of whom dont agree with the governments views any more than you do.

If any destination, Iran and its people deserve that visit and support. As much as the fear-mongering media deserves to be proven wrong.
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